Choosing the Best Oils for Cold Process Soapmaking: Tips and Techniques

When it comes to cold process soapmaking, there is no single 'best' oil or fat to use. You can go as simple or as complex as you like, blending various carrier oils and butters to achieve the desired benefits and results. This article will explore some of the most popular choices, the reasons behind their popularity, and the techniques used to craft beautiful, luxurious soaps.

The Importance of Research in Cold Process Soapmaking

In the world of cold process soapmaking, a deep understanding of different oils and butters is essential. Each carrier oil or butter brings unique characteristics to your soap, influencing factors such as lathering, cleansing, and conditioning properties. Spending time studying and experimenting with different combinations can greatly enhance your soapmaking skills. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced crafter, knowledge is the foundation of success.

Personal Favorites and Their Benefits

Mid-Grade Olive Oil and Rendered Tallow

My all-time favorites for cold process soapmaking are tallow, rendered from beef fat, and mid-grade olive oil. These ingredients, when cured for at least two months, produce a beautifully lathering bar. If you exclude coconut oil, you can create a "castile" soap, a formula that is becoming more rare but still occasionally found on labels. Real castile soap is a low-lathering soap that lasts longer than many other soaps, making it ideal for those with oily complexions. It is also considered a better cleanser for some, though this can be tricky to achieve and requires precise timing, often allowing for a cure period of three months.

Primary Oils: Lard, Coconut, Olive, Shea, Cocoa Butter, Avocado, and Safflower

My primary oils in cold process soapmaking include lard, coconut oil, olive oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, avocado oil, and safflower oil, each contributing unique qualities to the final product. Here's a breakdown of why each is favored:

Lard: Known for making a hard, long-lasting bar that leaves a lotion-like feel, with a lower cleansing value. Coconut Oil: Produces a hard bar that lathers well and has a high cleansing value. It is used sparingly unless making a 100% coconut oil soap, in which case a 40% superfat is recommended. Olive Oil: Mild and slow to trace, it leaves the skin feeling conditioned. Shea Butter: Contributes to hard bars and is conditioned-friendly, providing a lotion-like feel on the skin while giving a low creamy lather. Cocoa Butter: Hardens the bar and adds conditioning benefits, leaving a lotion-like feel on the skin. Avocado Oil: Rich in antioxidants and vitamins, it provides a luxurious texture to the soap and is especially appreciated when avocado purée is added. Safflower Oil: Provides nourishment to the skin, enhancing the silkiness of the lather.

Online Soap Calculators: A Valuable Tool

Modern soapmaking is often aided by online calculators, making the process more precise and formula-driven. One such tool is a soap calculator, which helps determine the optimal combination of oils, fatty acids, and qualities like hardness, bubbles, longevity of lather, and more. These calculators allow you to input your chosen oils and adjust the formula to fit your desired soap qualities.

For instance, a typical formula might include olive oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, palm oil, and castor oil. The castor oil provides excellent bubbles but is only a small part of the total mixture. Sometimes, blends like apricot kernel and almond oils are used, with less avocado oil for different effects. Online calculators like Soapee can help you experiment and tweak your formula for the perfect balance. Here is a sample recipe for a Guinness beer soap, which you can explore and adapt to your needs.

Joining soapmaking groups on platforms like Facebook can provide access to a wealth of information and support. Members often share valuable insights, tips, and recipes, fostering a community that is passionate about this craft.

Safety and Enjoyment

While soapmaking is rewarding, it is important to approach it with the necessary safety precautions. Always be cautious when handling lye and use a precise scale for measuring your ingredients. Modern online tools can guide you in achieving the best results, and with practice, you can become a skilled soapmaker.

So, whether you're a seasoned crafter or just starting out, the world of cold process soapmaking offers numerous opportunities for creativity and customism. Happy soaping!